Every year around Easter time, a mysterious box of Marshmallow Peeps would without fail make its way into my cupboard. It was my mom’s one guilty pleasure, an annual indulgence in a tradition that spanned to her own childhood. For the record, this was unusual because the rest of the year almost every edible morsel in my house had the word ‘organic’ stamped on it. Aside from their glorious sugar loaded goodness, another aspect of them intruiged my childhood sensibilities. Why were the little tiny birds sitting below plastic so colorful? Why were some blue, some yellow and others pink? The more I thought about it, I could scarcely remember ever having seen a yellow bird, let alone a pink or purple one. It set my mind in motion, why did the fake birds need to be colorful? Was it because they would otherwise look inedible? (probably.) Was it to celebrate the Christian-pagan welcoming of spring in the pre-approved color scheme? (again, probably.)
With the FDA reopening debate about the safety of food dyes, I think its time we examined what real function they serve in our edibles as well as the broader effects of their consumption. When we really start to look at our processed foods, the necessity for coloring becomes less and less clear. One could only say that it makes the food look more appetizing; but some could easily find fault with that assertion. I am one of them.
I had fully abandoned candy by the time I arrived at college. As a kid I loved M&Ms, devoured Mountain Dew and counted the days every year until that one, magical morning when I was allowed to have Lucky Charms for breakfast. As an adult I have mostly lost interest in the Technicolor diet. These days I mostly eat brown things. Hmm. It is certainly clear that children are the most frequent consumers of sugary, colorful ‘foods.’ For this reason it is especially troubling that recent research has linked food dye consumption to hyperactivity in younger people. The population known to be most affected by the products are consuming them most.
However it is not only the youth who enjoy dyed edibles. These ‘appearance enhancers’ have found their way into many of our foods; usually offering the façade of an ingredient that isn’t really there. Take these examples from the St. Petersburg Times:
• Aunt Jemima Blueberry Waffles contain no blueberries. The blue bits are Red 40 and Blue 2.
• McDonald's strawberry sauce? Call it McRed 40 sauce.
• Kraft's Guacamole Dip doesn't get its greenish color from avocados (because, we're told, there are hardly any in it). A better name: Yellow 5, 6 and Blue 1 Dip.
http://www.tampabay.com/features/consumer/article636211.ece
It would be safe to say that Aunt Jemima could probably not afford to put actual blueberries in her waffles, nor could McDonald’s eke out the Strawberries for their sauce, and Phillip Morris would probably go out of business if it sprung for real avocados in its Kraft dip. There is no debate when it comes to the companies’ motives for food dye use, the alternative: real food would clearly be far too expensive for these companies. The question then remains, why are they trying to fool us? Can we not handle the truth, that everything would otherwise probably look some shade of brown without coloring?

Perhaps we are all a little bit too comfortable; we all like our food to look a certain way. If any scary government regulators tried to take away the artificial colors we would probably wind up huddled and shivering in a corner staring at the deep fried corn snack in our hand that WASN’T fluorescent orange. Researchers at Cornell’s Food and Brand Lab actually determined that people who ate the Cheetos without coloring (let alone the FD&C Yellow No. 6) did not register the cheese flavor, nor did they consider them “as much fun to eat.”[* ]
There is no doubt that eating is a psychological experience, and the food industry certainly understands that fact. They know how much we will enjoy something, based on what color it is. After the government of the United Kingdom recently banned artificial dyes in British foods, the industry making the switch to all natural coloring. I wonder if this would ever be possible in our lovely corporate-ruled country. Alls I know is that the McDonalds customers of Great Britain get real strawberries in their sauce, and we are still stuck eating our fruit-inspired Red 40 glop.
[*]
Gardiner Harris, 'Colorless Food? We Blanch.' New York Times, April, 3, 2011. (http://www.nytimes.com/2011/04/03/weekinreview/03harris.html)
